Somethingdongxi Guo Pei Autumn-Winter 2020-2021 Haute Couture

来自非洲⼤草原的领悟
Guo Pei Autumn-Winter 2020-2021 Haute Couture

对生命与自然的维护, 就是对人类未来的思考。
The delicate balance of life and nature reflects the future of mankind

Guo Pei

中国高定服第一位高定设计师郭培的Guo Pei 2020 秋冬⾼定系列,汲取来⾃非洲⼤草原的充沛灵感。这次保留着生命最原始的风貌,万物遵循⾃然的法则⽣存、迁徙与繁衍。设计师有感于⽣命迸发出的蓬勃⼒量,将⾃然的律动谱写成⼀曲全新的创意协奏,优雅呈现灵动非凡的生命礼赞。

Pinatex ⾯料是此次发布会的⼀大亮点。受到丰富⾃然资源与菲律宾传统编织⼯艺的启发,Pinatex ⾯料提取菠萝叶的植物纤维制作⽽而成。设计师选⽤这⼀自然与人造的融合⾯料,对可持续性时尚进⾏⼜又⼀次的探索。优雅的⽩色与⼤象灰奠定了中性⾊的基调,象征⽣命脉络的两个⾊彩—激情的红、梦幻的蓝,表 达或激昂或沉静的⽣命变奏,呈现⼀个介于现实与梦境之间的某个维度。

作为天然⽪皮⾰革的替代品,Pinatex ⾯料拥有出色的挺括质感,为现代轮廓的构建提供了无限的可能。向外翻折的棱边,⼏何截⾯的⽴体运用,圆形弧线的夸张表达,设计师以解构性的⼤大胆剪裁,让时装呈现出现代主义建筑的简明线条与 空间结构。剪裁利落的廓形⼤衣、经典套装与 A 型裙,让来⾃非洲⼤草原的⾃然灵感寻得与当下时尚⾼度契合的表达,展现⾃由、独⽴的新时代⼥性姿态。

全新系列列游⾛在理理性与感性之间,在现代廓形与⾃然灵感的跃动交融中,阐述 时尚语境中的⽣命节序。猎豹、长颈⿅与斑⻢等动物图案,以出其不意的图案布局,柔化了现代廓形的硬朗。利落流畅的剪裁线条与⽣生机盎然的⾃然曲线交互叠,⻓颈⿅优雅的颈部曲线,斑⻢交颈相抵的剪影,⼤象敦实⽽厚的⾜部,隐藏在服装流丽的线条中,随时准备开启⼀场摩登的都市冒险。在 Puff 袖型基础上延伸出的斑⻢袖与象⿐袖极富新意,表达着时尚与自然之间的不息互 动。

可持续性时尚同时体现在⼯艺的传承与创新。在全新系列中,⽺毛塑毡这种⼈类记载中最为古⽼的织品⼯艺,与精湛繁缛的刺刺绣⼯艺创意融合。刺绣呈现出 的精致细节,与⽺毛塑毡呈现出的原朴质感,进⾏着⼀场充满张⼒又细腻动⼈的对话,以⾼级时装的艺术⼿法,再现稀树草原上壮美、坚韧的生命景观。

Guo Pei 2020 秋冬⾼定系列列,将人类从都市剥离,回归⾮洲⼤草原的原始与辽 阔,在高级时装中与生动物们亲密互动,寻找回归本真的⾃我形态,拥抱⾃然,享受⽣命。

Guo Pei Autumn-Winter 2020-2021 Haute Couture (All 19 looks)

Guo Pei’s Autumn/Winter 2020 collection is inspired by the mystical African grasslands. Here, the original landscapes of Earth are preserved. Nature’s law of survival, migration and procreation remain untainted. The designer draws upon this invigorating life force, composing a concerto to nature’s rhythm, celebrating the tenacity of life.

The fabric, Pinatex features prominently in this collection. Combining rich natural resources and traditional Filipino weaving techniques, Pinatex fabrics are made from plant fibers of pineapple leaves. The designer chose the fusion of this naturally sourced material put together by manual craft to once again, explore sustainable fashion. Elephant grey and white, neutrals, serve as supports for the two colours that symbolize the veins of life – the passionate red and the dreamy blue. Evocation of our life, sometimes calm, sometimes exhilarating, in a dimension between dream and reality.

As a substitute for natural leather, Piñatex fabrics have an excellent crisp texture, providing unlimited possibilities for the construction of modern silhouettes. Using outward-folded edges, three-dimensional geometric

cross-sections and exaggerated circular arcs, Guo Pei boldly uses deconstructed cuts to interpret simple lines and structured silhouettes. Through contemporary styles of neatly-cut coats, classic suits and A-shaped skirts, Guo Pei portrays the independence and liberal spirit of today’s women.

Contrasting with the structural silhouettes are hand embroidered, graceful animal motifs such as cheetahs, giraffes and zebras. The elegant neck curve of the giraffe, the mesmerizing stipes of the zebra, the sturdy limbs of the elephant, blended into the movement of the garments, as if ready for a modern urban adventure. Puffy sleeves adorned with zebras and elephant trunks innovatively conveys the affinity between nature and fashion.

The principles of sustainable fashion are also reflected in the craftsmanship in this collection. The texture of traditional handcrafted sheep wool felt is creatively blended with intricate embroidery, like a lively dialogue – intense yet delicate…a romantic representation of the grandiosity of the savanna grassland.

Guo Pei Autumn/Winter 2020 collection transports one from urban life to the primitive and vast fields of Savannah, embracing the essence of life in its primal and true form.

Share the Post
Share on facebook
Share on email
Share on twitter
Share on linkedin

Related Posts