Valentino Spring Summer 2022 Haute Couture

华伦天奴高级定制春夏2022
Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022

在迫切需要重新思考高级定制时装的仪式和流程,以创造一个反映当代世界丰富性和多样性的典范,推广不绝对完美的美学概念驱动下,创意总监 Pierpaolo Piccioli 设想了 Valentino Anatomy of Couture 系列,旨在展示非品牌单一、理想的模式,而是体现不同体型、年龄的各界女性。

经过长期从科学和浪漫角度的过程研究,Pierpaolo Piccioli 以温和的民主精神,但同时持着对众所周知过程改革的激情,将系列打造成体态、服装和穿衣人的复合式和谐。在此,高级定制时装始终不渝美的传递,但在本季以热情友好的方式展示。

The body, that of women in particular, is both a matter of fact and a cultural construct, of which beauty canons change over time, imposing now tense verticality, now soft horizontality, celebrating certain parts of the anatomy over others. In the system of Haute Couture this drive to idealization materializes in the body of the house model, on which everything is designed and built, becoming real while remaining an abstraction.Driven by the urgency of rethinking the rituals and processes of Couture in order to create a canon that reflects the richness and diversity of the contemporary world and promoting an idea of beauty that is not absolute, Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli imagined this Valentino Anatomy of Couture collection not on one single and idealized house model, but on a variety of women with different body frames and ages. Soft and welcoming in the democratic spirit, and at the same time radical in the approach that rewrites known processes, Pierpaolo Piccioli builds the collection as a composite harmony of physical types and the clothes that dress them, studied through a long process, both scientific and poetic. The message does not change in its purpose, which is to convey beauty, but in the welcoming expression.The body is the starting and ending point of the whole process. Silhouettes follow it closely, or detach from it. Nudity glimmers from extremely short hems, peeping from deep necklines that reveal the torso. A strong sense of verticality alternates with breezy horizontality. The codes of Valentino Couture are reiterated in a dialogue that is not a fragmentation but a coherent proposal expressed through different body frames. The intimate dialogue between who thinks the clothes, who makes them and who wears them is reflected in the intimacy of the presentation.Altering the process, yet keeping the quest for beauty and grace intact, a gesture of noble rupture, of poetic openness is affirmed, one which gives dignity to the individual by replacing the reality that includes to the abstraction that excludes.

Valentino Couture Spring Summer 2022 (all 64 looks)

All images provided by Valentino. 

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