表面功夫不马虎
These dramatic handcrafted dials may even require as much skill and hours of labor as the complex caliber it hides from view.
有时间：
从珐琅彩绘到珠宝镶嵌，各大腕表品牌都出尽法宝以不同的艺术手法来点缀表盘，提升鉴赏价值。
SomeTime:
Dials become miniature canvases in these remarkable métiers d’arts timepieces. Here’s some 7 timepieces that are as gorgeous as a piece of art.
卡地亚 Ronde Louis Cartier 秸秆金艺细工镶嵌腕表
1914年，猎豹首次以抽象图案呈现于卡地亚作品之上。从此，品牌不断诠释猎豹变幻万千的面貌。
2020年，卡地亚细工镶嵌师、珠宝师、设计师、珐琅工艺师、宝石镶嵌师和微绘师于拉夏德芳卡地亚大师工艺工作坊通力合作，打造出两款Métiers d’Art大师工艺系列新作 —— Ronde Louis Cartier秸秆金艺细工镶嵌腕表及珐琅金银丝细工腕表。
75支粗细不同、浓淡各异的秸秆演绎11种细腻色彩，勾勒出卡地亚Ronde Louis Cartier 精美的装饰图案卡地亚将烧制工艺融入细工镶嵌的构图美学，以珐琅生动再现豹斑皮毛与豹目。整体图案浓郁饱和，从乳白过渡到黄色的丰富色调，与黑白图案形成对比。四种色彩浑然搭配，生动描绘豹目神采。猎豹目光如炬，摄人心魄，尽显卡地亚在生动与抽象艺术领域的过人造诣。豹首造型蕴含由18K白金、18K黄金和18K玫瑰金打造的超过65种素材，由细工镶嵌师逐一雕刻成型，并进行缎面打磨。18K黄金细丝镶嵌在秸秆之间，营造呼之欲出的深邃感，令卡地亚工匠首次探索的这一精巧工艺更显独特。背景部分的豹斑由手工微绘而成。
这款腕表的制作工序耗费超过100小时，仅表盘制作就耗费了97个小时，限量发售30枚。
Cartier Ronde Louis Cartier Straw and Gold Marquetry watch
Straw and gold marquetry and enamel filigree – this year, the artisans in Cartier’s La Chaux-de-Fonds reveal two new “Métiers d’Art” watches, created around the natural and the precious through exchanges between marquetry craftsmen, jewellers, designers, enamellers, gem-setters and miniature painters.
Since its first appearance in its abstract form in 1914, Cartier has continually reinterpreted the panther. The feline illuminates multiple Cartier creations with varied inspirations. From motif to material or volume, everything related to the animal provides reason to go beyond the different crafts and techniques allowing new creative territories resulting from unexpected encounters.
Made entirely by the marquetry craftsman from the Maison des Métiers d’Art in La Chaux-de-Fonds, this year, the Ronde Louis Cartier watch unveils the technique of straw and gold marquetry. The precious metal is added to the palette of materials already used in marquetry, making it possible to work with volume and create a rendering reminiscent of bas-relief. An adventurous, never-before-seen undertaking that required the marquetry craftsman to be trained in gold work by the jewellers from the Maison des Métiers d’Art.
Seventy-five blades of straw in different sizes and shades, produced in 11 colours, make up the parts of the décor. The feline’s head is comprised of more than sixty-five elements in white, yellow and pink gold, which are shaped and satin-finished one by one. With an unusual play of meta-exploration, yellow gold wires are embedded in natural straw elements, adding complexity and sophistication that the craftsmen explored for the first time.
Cartier combines ceramic arts with the art of composition, to which marquetry belongs, by enamelling the spots on the coat and eyes. The rich colour palette contrasts black and white with a large number of shades between opaline and yellow. For the eyes, four different shades come together on a miniscule surface. The gaze comes to life with sparkle, shine and depth, an expression of Cartier’s figurative and realist art. The spots in the background are created with miniature paint.
Brought to life after more than 100 hours, 97 of which are spent on the dial alone, this creation is available in a limited edition of 30 individually numbered timepieces.
卡地亚Ronde Louis Cartier 珐琅金银丝细工腕表
卡地亚大师工艺工作坊的设计师与工匠挥洒创意，将金银丝工艺与珐琅艺术相结合。工匠大师将珐琅粉末加热溶化，并牵拉釉料以缔造竹子造型，最后用18K黄金细丝将其固定于表盘上，呈现近景的竹子效果。
卡地亚工匠还借助其它珍贵工艺，令表盘图案深浅相宜、立体生动。位于中景的竹子及豹斑豹目由隆起的内填珐琅描绘，画面远景的天空和竹子则由手工微绘完成。
这款腕表勾勒出以卡地亚标志性猎豹为主角的独特景致，限量发售30枚。
Cartier Ronde Louis Cartier Enamel Filigree watch
This year, designers and craftsmen from the Maison des Métiers d’Art have adapted the filigree technique to be used with enamel. With this technique, the enamel powder is heated, and the glass is stretched until it takes the shape of bamboo, before being set and fixed to the dial by tiny strands of yellow gold. This creates the bamboo effect used in the foreground.
To add perspective to the motif and play with the effects of depth, the craftsmen had to turn to other areas of expertise: domed champlevé enamel for the bamboo in the background and black spots of the beast’s fur and eyes, as well as miniature painting for the sky and the background bamboo.
With a scene entirely dedicated to the Maison’s emblematic animal, this watch is available in a limited edition of 30 individually numbered pieces.
爱马仕Arceau Cheval Cosmique 腕表
由Henri d’Origny于1978年设计的Arceau 腕表低调内敛又独具一格，爱马仕的创意展现。
由艺术家Gianpaolo Pagni构想的Cheval Cosmique(意为宇宙神驹)将浪潮般的波 纹与源自埃米尔·爱马仕私人珍藏中的骏马 图案结合。别出心裁的构图在以立体浮雕 的形式呈现，凸显于由砂金石或珍珠母贝与 珐琅制成的表盘上:快步疾走的华丽骏马和 起伏的波纹，均由经手工精雕的白金打造。
为创作出这款杰作，光是一个 表盘就需要工匠用上将近一周的工时，在厚度不到半厘米的金盘上细心雕琢。首先，工匠先刻出波浪图案，并用黑漆勾勒加以强调。然后将其固定在表盘上，接着用砂金石 或珐琅与珍珠母贝装嵌在图案周围。最后，将精心雕琢的骏马装饰就位，才以点睛之笔完整了该部分的创作。Arceau Cheval Cosmique腕表推出两 个限量版本，各发行24枚。一款为白金腕 表，其色彩深邃的砂金石表盘中央呈现一匹 气宇轩昂的骏马，与深海蓝色的鳄鱼皮表带 和谐配搭。另一款是美钻白金腕表， 珍珠母贝与珐琅制成的表盘璀璨明亮，与其奶油白色的鳄鱼皮表带相呼应。
Hermes Arceau Cheval Cosmique watch
The Arceau watch designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978 lends its sober yet singular allure to a new expression of Hermès creativity and expertise. Imagined by artist Gianpaolo Pagni, the “Cheval Cosmique” composition combines graphic undulations with the silhouette of a horse from Émile Hermès’ private collection. This singular interpretation is transposed here in relief, on a dial in aventurine or mother-of-pearl and enamel: a splendid trotting horse and a wavy motif hand- engraved in white gold.
To create just one example of this miniature artwork, the artisan works for almost a week on a gold plate less than half a centimetre thick. First, by engraving the waves and accentuating them with a fine black lacquer; and then, by fixing this engraving in place on the dial before covering the surrounding area with aventurine or enamel and mother-of-pearl. Finally, the beautifully engraved horse is put in place, setting the perfect final touch to this creation.
The Arceau Cheval Cosmique watch is produced in two limited series of 24 each. The first, in white gold, displays its equestrian motif at the heart of a dial featuring deep shades of aventurine enhanced by an abyss- blue alligator strap. The second, in white gold set with diamonds, frames a luminous dial in mother-of-pearl and enamel, highlighted by a Chantilly alligator strap. The new Arceau with its hours and minutes display is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement which, like the dial, case and bracelet, is developed in the Hermes Horloger workshops.
江斯丹顿 “乐动时光” 阁楼工匠“灵鸟欢歌”腕表
这四款独时计杰作，搭载1120 AT超薄机芯，为珐琅彩绘大师提供了施 展精湛技艺的自由舞台。时间显示以偏心式设计置于表盘右侧，而左侧则预留出充足的空间， 展现精妙的内填珐琅工艺 ，细腻刻画出蜂鸟、冠蓝鸟、蓝山雀及知更鸟的灵动 姿态，为阁楼工匠部门精心构思出的“ 乐动时光”主 题注入新鲜活力。
为在表盘上呈现出栩栩如生的灵鸟图案，江诗丹顿的珐琅彩绘大师采用了内填珐琅工艺。珐琅彩 绘大师首先在表盘上凿出较薄的凹槽，然后用极细的毛刷将珐琅釉彩填充到勾勒好的凹槽中。上 色时需借助显微镜，图案色彩越丰富，就意味着上釉和烧制的流程越复杂。为了生动描绘灵鸟的神态，珐琅彩绘大师运用丰富经验，仔细斟酌，为每个表盘精选10余种色调呈现出微妙的渐变色泽。这一工艺还需要对火候的精准掌控，因为珐琅中的矿物质在高温融化后，才能焕发出独特的半透明光泽。在珐琅彩绘大师手工微绘出灵鸟的生动姿态后，表盘需在窑中连续多次烧制，逐 渐达到釉彩固色的效果。每一次烧制都伴随着失败的风险，稍有不慎就会前功尽弃。
Vacheron Constantin La Musique de Temps Les Cabinotiers – The Singing Birds
These four one-of-a-kind creations – showcasing artistic crafts by respectively featuring a hummingbird, a blue jay, a blue tit and a robin – add fresh notes to “La Musique du Temps”, a theme dreamed up by the Maison’s Les Cabinotiers department.
Vacheron Constantin’s approach to time measurement finds its ultimate expression when technical sophistication is enhanced by the talent of art masters and by hand finishing consistent with the tenets of Haute Horlogerie. All of which is perfectly illustrated in four one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers – the singing birds models. Masterpieces of champlevé painted enamel, the enchanting bucolic scenes on the dials offer a poetic interpretation of “La Musique du Temps”, a theme imagined by the Les Cabinotiers department and honoured here by the imaginary song of the birds.
Perfect mastery of volumes and craftsmanship techniques is essential on these models featuring a two- tiered dial. The work on the two dial sections – one enamelled and concealing the module driving the hours and minutes, while the other guilloché area serves to display these indications – requires great precision in the fine adjustment of these two elements endowing this model with its innate elegance.
To create these strikingly realistic dials, Vacheron Constantin’s master enameller used the champlevé painted enamel technique. This consists of hollowing out of the dial material thin alveoli, designed as receptacles for the enamel delicately applied with a brush. Performed using binoculars, this work is all the more complex due to the rich palette of colours. To give life to the birds, the master artisan has in fact extended his palette to some 10 colours and their subtly graded shades for each of the dials, representing the fruit of intense research and extreme dexterity in their application. Mastery of fire is also indispensable, given that enamel – a mineral material – must be melted to achieve its inimitable translucent brilliance. As the birds take shape under the expert hand of the craftsman, the piece requires successive firings in the kiln to gradually fix the colours in place, which is a risky operation for the work already performed.
