Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts collection

百达斐丽珍稀工艺
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts collection

百达翡丽装饰时计的专业手工技艺源远流长，璀璨夺目。收藏家们从中可以了解到百达翡丽的能工巧匠及其精湛技艺，以及斯登家族对珍稀工艺的独特承诺，无论是过去、现在，还是将来。

百达翡丽每年都会限量推出一系列独一无二的珍稀工艺的报时工具，当中包括腕表、怀表和座钟。每件物品都展示了不同专业工艺，包括：细木镶嵌、宝石镶嵌、雕饰纹、链带工艺、珐琅和雕刻等。今年完成的作品就包括了一个带有珐琅彩绘的圆顶座钟20105M Jazz 和带有细木镶嵌工艺和珐琅彩绘的熊猫怀表995/122J Panda。

专于精雕细镂的细木镶嵌工匠双手极其灵巧，工作起来有条不紊、无微不至且一丝不苟；对于从薄如叶片的单板中切割出来的每片细小木材，他都能准确地辨识出纹理，从而决定如何使用镶嵌细工是装饰家具、小型木器及图画镶板的传统工艺，在钟表界相对而言则是新鲜事物。细木镶嵌工匠要在镶板上进行装饰或艺术创作，就必须采用各式各样不同颜色的名贵木材，按照自己的创作灵感以及选择或勾勒的图案来裁切、组合、构图。若为几何装饰图案，则这种工艺确切而言应当称为“细木拼镶”。无论是抽象图案，还是象征性图案，创作者必须广泛挑选各种不同色调的材料，按照个人风格加以拼嵌组合。他可能需要用到130多种木材以及60到70种天然色彩，这还不算预先染色的木材在内。这项工艺的基本手法是按图裁切木材，再粘贴到底板上。 

珐琅彩绘历来是日内瓦的传统工艺特色，因此，百达翡丽毅然决定保留这项传统。不过如今，在众多珍稀工艺中，微绘珐琅的传承难度最大。要达到珐琅工艺大师的水平，必须接受经年累月的培训和刻苦练习。更何况艺术天赋与才华等必备条件，并非仅靠后天学习可以获得 。 

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts collection
The rhythm, spontaneity and exuberance of jazz pulsates in the decor of this unique piece, showcasing the refined technique of grand feu cloisonné enamel. To create the stylized silhouettes of the musicians in full swing and the word “Jazz” used as a design element in the background, the artist patiently cut out, shaped by hand and fixed to the base plate about 18.3 m of flat 24K yellow-gold wire (20.3 g) with a cross section of 0.15 x 0.6 mm. Bringing his composition to life and conveying the heady sound of the music called for a palette of 48 solely transparent enamel colors, combined to produce superb gradients and layered effects. Each enamel element required 9 firings at a temperature of approximately 840°C. The hour circle is designed as a stylized keyboard, with black-lacquered hour markers and frames a dial center in cloisonné enamel. Caliber 17’’’ PEND, mechanical movement wound by an electric motor.

Every year, in its endeavor to nurture the expertise that for several centuries has been used to decorate timepieces, Patek Philippe presents a collection of one-of-a-kind masterpieces and limited editions that were crafted using numerous special techniques. They comprise many pocket watches, wristwatches, dome table clocks and bracket clocks that in Patek Philippe’s salons in Geneva pay tribute to a broad range of artisanal skills. The palette of talents includes manual engraving, precious miniature painting on enamel (a Genevan specialty), flinqué enamel on hand guilloching, paillonné enamel, enamel with Limoges painting, fauré enamel (relief enamel), Longwy enamel on faience, and gemsetting. The collection also features the highly exclusive technique of wood micromarquetry as well as mixed-technique pieces that combine marquetry, manual engraving, and flinqué enamel. While exploring the exhibits, visitors can also observe the artisans at work as they demonstrate their virtuosity in enameling, miniature painting on enamel, engraving, marquetry and guilloching on the spot.

This year, Patek Philippe launches Dome table clock in cloisonné enamel 20105M “Jazz” and Pocket watch with wood marquetry, manual engraving and manual guilloching beneath transparent enamel 995/122J Panda . 

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts collection
This unique piece in yellow gold pays tribute to the giant panda, one of the most illustrious inhabitants of China’s forests. The marquetry depicting this mammal that feeds mainly on bamboo shoots required 194 veneer parts and 190 inlays fashioned from 26 species of wood to capture its vitality and wealth of detail. The dial is hand-guilloched and hand-engraved with bamboo motifs beneath transparent green enamel (flinqué enamel). Yellow-gold applied Breguet numerals and yellow-gold leaf-shaped hands indicate the time. Hand-engraved bamboo motifs adorn the bezel and the border of the case back. A green tourmaline cabochon (0.34 ct) is set in the crown. The bamboo-style bow is hand-crafted. This pocket watch comes with a yellow-gold handcrafted stand inspired by bamboo, resting on a foot with a green tourmaline cabochon (0.33 ct). It is set on a green marble base. Manually wound caliber 17’’’ LEP PS with subsidiary seconds.
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