Machine Legacy Machine FlyingT- first MB&F Machine dedicated to women

The last thing I wanted to do was to take a masculine timepiece, resize it, put a different colour on it and call it a ladies’ watch.

Maximilian Büsser

即使是最令人捉摸不透和大胆恣意的生活,在事过境迁之后加以回顾,也能自成模式并开启规律循环。这个基本事实构成了人类生存的基础,无论是个人或集体皆然。对于Maximilian BüsserMB&F说,创意的能量就是以七年为一循环。MB&F创立第七年之时,Legacy Machine系列面世,第一间M.A.D.Gallery艺廊于日内瓦开幕,同时MB&F也开启联名创作的大门。

迈入第14个年头时,MB&F在探索钟表领域的道路上另辟蹊径,为创始人和公司都开创了更前瞻的创作视野:2019年首度推出MB&F专为女性设计的第一款三维钟表艺术杰作:Legacy Machine FlyingT

Legacy Machine FlyingT的设计充满了Maximilian Büsser生活中源自女性和母性影响的巧妙联想。Büsser表示:我希望LM FlyingT所拥有的女性气质缩影,能体现出我生命中的女人,尤其是我的母亲。它必须拥有淋漓尽致的优雅,并结合丰沛旺盛的生命力。飞行陀飞轮的柱状结构对我来说非常重要,因为我深刻体会到女性是人类的支柱。此外,太阳造型摆陀还有另一层意义,它代表孕育生命的元素,是我们赖以生存的源泉。

为了彰显LM FlyingT女表不同层次的细腻特质,Legacy Machine表壳完全经过重新设计:厚度和直径都被减少,以便将人们的目光聚焦在高凸的拱形蓝宝石水晶表镜上。表耳也变得更加纤薄,曲线更形突出,倒角修饰的角度也更大,创造出更为优雅的轮廓。

过去醒目或特别强调的线条设计,在LM FlyingT腕表上都经过调整:例如时针和分针所采用的波浪造型,便巧妙呼应自动上链摆陀的阳光放射纹设计。LM FlyingT的设计特别着重于不对称造型上,包括位于7点钟位置的时间显示,以及围绕柱状陀飞轮的镂空表盘机板窗口。连陀飞轮框架本身也是不对称的:它采用了悬臂式双拱上盖夹桥,而不是其他MB&F飞轮腕表所采用的对称式战斧造型。Legacy Machine FlyingT整体设计凝聚了各种女性精神象征,令Maximilian Büsser产生了强烈共鸣:例如自动上链摆陀的太阳图案和陀飞轮的立柱结构,就分别体现出赋予生命和支持供养的概念。

Even the most unpredictable and audaciously led lives, when observed from a distance, form patterns and fall into cycles. This is a fundamental truth that underlies all human existence, whether individual or collective. For Maximilian Büsser and MB&F, creative energy comes in seven-year cycles. It was in MB&F’s seventh year that the Legacy Machine collection was born, that the first M.A.D.Gallery opened in Geneva and opened the door to the MB&F co-creations.

The 14th year of MB&F unveiled a new avenue of horological exploration, an evolution of creative horizons for founder and company alike: the Legacy Machine FlyingT, first launched in 2019, is the first of MB&F’s three-dimensional horological art pieces dedicated to women.

To bring out a different level of refinement for the feminine LM FlyingT, the Legacy Machine case was completely redesigned. Case height and diameter were reduced in order to shift the focus to the highly convex sapphire crystal dome. The lugs were slimmed down, their curves were emphasised, and deep bevels were introduced to create a more elegant profile.

Harsh or particularly defined lines have been tempered throughout LM FlyingT, such as in the example of the hour and minute hands, which take on an undulating shape – echoed in the rays of the sun-shaped automatic winding rotor.

Asymmetry is highlighted in the design of LM FlyingT, from the positioning of the time display at 7 o’clock to the ventricular dial-plate aperture that frames the emerging tourbillon. Even the tourbillon cage itself embraces asymmetry, opting for a cantilevered double-arch upper bridge instead of the symmetrical battleaxe which has topped all other MB&F tourbillons.

Woven throughout Legacy Machine FlyingT are subtle references to the aspects of femininity that resonate strongest with Max Büsser, such as the solar motif of the automatic winding rotor and the column construction of the tourbillon, which introduce concepts of life-giving and support.

All photos by MB&F.

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