Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring Summer 2022

回归性感
Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring Summer 2022 wants you to get sexy

要说当下最会卖弄性感的新锐品牌,那么 Ludovic de Saint Sernin 一定算一个。品牌在巴黎时尚周的每场秀都成了时尚界最吸睛的一场秀,刚结束的春夏2022系列也不例外。

设计师Ludovic de Saint Sernin 出生于比利时,曾任职于Dior、Saint Laurent 和Balmain 等时尚品牌,如今成为了LVMH旗下一个专门设计高级内衣的设计师。这位29岁的设计师父亲是葡萄牙外交官,母亲是法国名媛。他的设计从来就不取悦别人,强调自我风格。这也让他保持了大胆的设计风格,坚持走自己的路子。而如今,2022年春夏系列再度在巴黎时装周举办,新一季的风格再度加码,展现出了更多的时尚时装,这场秀从设计到风格都是可圈可点的。虽然部分的造型用了男模来展示,但事实上服装都是中性服装男女同款,我觉得从概念来说,还有时装的设计是真的很不错。

For SS22, Ludovic de Saint Sernin presents Désir, a sartorial exploration of the slow smoulder of desire. Taking its name from a central character in René d’Anjou’s Livre du Cœur d’amour épris – a 15th-century tale of chivalric love – the collection echoes those feelings of all-consuming lust and yearning that we all know well.

A cornerstone of this season’s narrative is the result of a collaboration with French painter Jean Claracq, whose oeuvre exists in a constant dialogue between the canon of figurative painting and the contemporary queer visual vernaculars of apps such Instagram and Grindr. Born of a vision of Désir reimagined today as a plucky young boxer, here, his work translates to delicate, gradated embroideries of flickering flames on white taffeta boxer shorts – a first foray into artisanal needlework techniques for the label.

Elsewhere the slow burn of passion informs the palette of sandy écru and beige, earthen brown and basalt black, all inspired by the volcanic landscapes of Lanzarote. Menswear looks take on a dark, gothy timbre, while womenswear silhouettes suggest a svelte, delicate femininity — the sugar-sweet girlfriend to this season’s brooding bad boy. Trousers in finely-smocked silk hug her leg and pool at the ankle like the foam of a crashing wave, and a single-strapped dress made from crystals kindly donated by Swarovski clings to her body like the scales of a mermaid’s tail. Elsewhere the designer’s longstanding partnership with the Austrian crystal makers results in choker-halter dresses and tops composed of hanging strands, abbreviated pareos, and gleaming collars.

Fan favourites return, too – an eyelet-bordered trench appears in raw silk, and the designer’s iconic lace-up briefs, thongs, and bras return in swimwear iterations. This season, they’re complemented by gently-flared trousers in the same poly swim fabric, resulting in full siren-like looks worn as easily on land as in water. These pieces will be available to purchase from the moment they’re seen on the runway, a decision motivated by the success of the swim line the label launched this summer.

Amid this season’s underwear offering, a black thong with flame orange lacing nods to a forthcoming capsule collection with adult content platform Pornhub, the proud sponsors of today’s show. Built on shared values of sex positivity, inclusivity, and future-forward thinking, the partnership is a reflection of de Saint Sernin’s of bringing together worlds once kept apart. “Ludovic de Saint Sernin is a creative marvel that continues to smash the boundaries of fashion through his daring and truth-inspired designs,” Pornhub concur. “He is the exact type of artist that Pornhub supports — a progressive innovator that jettisons the traditional tropes of fashion and brings an inclusive take to the industry that changes it for the better.”

Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring Summer 2022

All photos provide by Ludovic de Saint Sernin

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