太阳依旧从东边升起
The show must go on
有时间：
钟表业最重要的表展之一“钟表与奇迹表展2020”（Watches & Wonders 2020，前身为SIHH日内瓦高级钟表展），因为冠状病毒疫情而取消了原定4月底在日内瓦举行的实体展。但为了不让时间停摆，举办单位将大展改为线上举办，参与的腕表品牌纷纷在线上发布今年的新品，让原本只能受邀出席的年度腕表盛会，成为所有爱表人士的线上时间大会。
SomeTime:
One of the most important watch fairs Watches and Wonders (previously know as SIHH, Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) in Geneva has been converted into an online fair due to the COVID-19 crisis this year. It is arguably the most private fair that gathers the best of watchmakers in the high-end watch game in the calendar. Unlike Baselworld, where anyone can buy an entrance ticket, you goanna be invited to step into the Palexpo Geneva. Watches & Wonders is, for first time ever (also highly likely to be the only time ever) turns into an online fair opens for all watch enthusiasts. Here’re some of the highlights for this year.
朗格：动感起来
朗格全新诠释Odysseus系列，以18K白色K金打造，搭配一体式橡胶或皮质表带。此款充满活力而风格优雅的时计配备大日历和大型星期显示，采用防水表壳，搭配独特纹饰设计的灰色表盘。Odysseus是在2019年10月问世，距瓦尔特·朗格（Walter Lange）与君特·布吕莱恩（Günter Blümlein）推出的新时代首批作品整整25年。Odysseus专为活力生活的人士打造，让他们在一些通常不太方便佩戴精密机械腕表的生活场景中，依然可以佩戴朗格腕表。别具一格的雕刻纹饰设计彰显腕表的动感风姿。这款腕表搭载专为Odysseus研制的L155.1 Datomatic型机芯。其名字“Datomatic”指日期显示机制和自动上链的巧妙融合。为确保腕表高精准且不受外在因素影响，摆轮以每小时28,800次的振频运作(4赫兹)。沉头平衡螺丝可以减少 空气阻力对腕表速率精准度的影响。机芯可提供最多50小时的动力储存。经过黑色镀铑处理的镂空中置摆陀和铂金950离心块件，确保可靠的动力传送。
A Lange & Sohne : Let’s go sporty
The brand that is known for its understated gentleman watch, has expand its sport collection – Odysseus which was launched in 2019. The new version comes in white gold and the signature five-link bracelet would be replaced by two straps, one in dark brown leather, and the other in silicone. The second model of the new family combines a 40.5-millimetre white-gold case with a grey dial. White-gold hands and notched baton appliques assure good legibility against the dark background. The numerals of the outsize date and the letters of the large format day display stand out in white on grey. With a height of 2.4 millimetres, they are easily readable even in poor light conditions. Like the hour and minute hands, the hour markers are luminous.
卡地亚：意料之外的形态
卡地亚总裁思礼乐通过视像发表演讲时说，今年是无可预料的一年，对卡地亚来说也有许多让人惊喜的呈献，包括腕表的各种意料之外的形态。今年卡地亚对一些经典系列如Cartier Prive line, Tank Asymetrique ，以及Santos Dumont都作了重新诠释，其中镂空版的Tank Asymetrique俘虏了爱表人士的心。Tank Asymetrique系列在1936年推出的时候因为其独特的棱形表壳颠覆传统，被誉为是“邪典”，新的镂空版本装载了9623机芯。不论在造型上还是性能上都让人眼前一亮。
Cartier : Let’s talk shape
“This year is a year of unexpected. “ Cyrille Vigneron, president & CEO has announced, via a video conference, that 2020 for Cartier is a year of “unexpected encounter”. This year we see several new interpretations of iconic models such as Cartier Prive line, Tank Asymetrique and Santos Dumont. The skeletonised version of Tank Asymetrique stole our hearts. This model which was launched in 1936 was a cult-classic timepiece. This skeletonized edition has the latest in-house calibre 9623 MC with stylised bridges as hour indexes
爱马仕：新表盘
爱马仕Arceau L’heure de la lune月读时光腕表，以独特的视角来观望月球，同时显示北半球与南半球的月相盈亏。以来自月球和火星的陨石、或来自撒哈沙漠的黑色陨石打造的表盘上，有两个围绕盘面运转移动显示时间的副表盘，随着搭载于爱马仕自制机芯中独创机制的节奏，显露出珍珠母贝精制的月相盘。
Arceau L’heure de la lune月读时光腕表以另类的创新手法来诠释传统复杂功能，在白金或铂金表壳中装载的是一个精巧机芯。嵌置珍珠母贝的陨石表盘打造出一片梦幻宇宙，卫星般绕着盘面转动的副表盘悬浮在南北半球的月相盘之上。而且，这两个月相盘在设计上还故意南北颠倒，南半球在上北半球在下。这种上下颠倒的做法让人体验迷失方向的意境，沉浸在仰望星空的幻梦中。
Hermes : New dial
The French luxury house has always managed to give a creative fine touch to her timepieces, at the same time showcases her unique métiers d’art. This year the Arceau l’Heure de la Lune (first launched in 2019) is reinterpreted with five meteorite stone dials such as Black Sahara meteorite, Martian meteorite and Lunar meteorite that give a addition dimension of mysteriousness to the timepiece.
万国表：缤纷色彩
万国表为其葡萄牙系列计时腕表增添三枚新作。其中两款腕表分别采用勃艮第红色和绿色表盘，令这个系列愈加丰富多彩。另外一款是精品店特别版，以18K 红金表壳搭配蓝色表盘。所有表款均搭载万国表69355型自制机芯，采用透明蓝宝石玻璃表背。
IWC: Gets into playful colors
This is the year of the Portugieser for IWC. The whole collection gets an overhaul in terms of aesthetic and functions. Some of the highlights this year is the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide and Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph. What is surprising from this year launches is the playful touch to the Portugieser Chronograph in green and burgundy dial, besides its regular blue and white dial.
积家：大师系列高度复杂艺术杰作
积家专注于鸣响腕表的专业技艺，以瑰丽新颖的设计，重新诠释超卓传统大师系列复杂功能腕表。这款腕表是积家继2019年推出的两枚三问报时腕表— —搭载积家184型手动上链机芯的Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel超卓传统大师系列球型陀飞轮西敏寺钟乐万年历腕表，以及搭载积家950型自动上链机芯的Master Grande Tradition Repetition Minute Perpeetuelle超卓传统大师系列万年历三问腕表后的又一全新力作。
积家超卓传统大师系列，以全新方式巧妙融合各类创新与复杂功能。作为该系列的全新之作，全新超卓传统大师系列复杂功能腕表荟萃积家逾一个世纪所积累的经验技艺，搭载三问报时及星空这两项制表历史上诗意浪漫又颇具技术挑战的复杂功能，堪称机械腕表的典范之作。此外，还增添轨道式飞行陀飞轮，进一步加强了腕表的复杂机械结构，令腕表更显精密别致。该系列有玫瑰表款和白金表款，各限量发行8枚，并采用全新外观设计，再次彰显积家高超的艺术工艺。
Jaeger LeCoultre: Ultimate high complication work of art
Jaeger-LeCoultre reinterprets its Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication with a magnificent new design. This follows the introduction in 2019 of two minute repeaters, the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel with calibre 184 and Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle with self-winding calibre 950. This masterpiece of mechanical engineering incorporates two of the most romantic yet technically challenging complications in horology: a minute repeater and a celestial vault. The complex mechanism is further elevated by an orbital flying tourbillon. This limited edition of eight pieces each in rose gold and in white gold features a new aesthetic that reaffirms Jaeger- LeCoultre’s mastery of the artistic crafts.
万宝龙：单指针报时
万宝龙全新1858系列24小时自动上链腕表有什么特别？这款计时最独特之处，在于其全新复杂功能通过红色尖头单指针指示24小时，准确显示一天中的时间进展，亦可作为指示方位的罗盘使用，为保证精准读取数据，罗盘刻度位于表盘外缘，并采用米黄色以示区分，大约每5度为一格，并标有四个红色基本方位标识。
其运作功能基于地球每24小时绕太阳公转一周，而太阳总是从东方升起，在西方落下，正午之时指向南方。如果你在北半球，将腕表调至正确的时间，与地面平行放置，再将其旋转直至时针末端指向太阳。如此一来，表盘上的所有基本方位标识都将正确指示：24时指示正北，12时指示正南。如果你在南半球，基本方向标识则与之相反。腕表设计的独特之处在于黑色表盘上饰有北半球地图和24条夜光子午线。表盘上的Super-LumiNova夜光涂层元素，可确保白天读时清晰的同时，在夜晚，24小时数字、时标和时分单指针则会呈现独特夜光效果，使得腕表神秘而与众不同。
Montblanc : Tell time with a single hand
What makes Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H special? It tells time with a single hand. A large red hand is the lone indicator on the watch, and it’s shaped to look almost like the needle of a compass (there are compass indications around the inner bezel too, amplifying this effect). It points to a simple track at the outer edge of the dial, with even Arabic numerals 2-24 and short hash marks counting out the hours, and tiny markings on a chapter ring counting out the quarter hours. The red hand more or less shows the arc of the day and night, giving you a rough sense of where you are in a 24-hour cycle.
沛纳海：特殊材质Fibratech
这个意大利品牌这些年花了不少时间在实验室里，继碳纤维、红金、 块状金属玻璃 不锈钢，以及环保钛金属之后，现在推出特殊材质Fibratech的腕表。 Fibratech是一种由环保可持续的天然纤维制成的复合物料，兼具出众的物理和机械性能，比精钢轻60%,且具有韧性，高度耐腐，代表了沛纳海纳沙泰尔制表厂创意工坊领先的专业技术水准。采用这种创新特殊材质的腕表是Luminor Marina庐米诺系列Fibratech腕表（PAM01663），而腕表的表圈、表冠和表冠护桥锁杆均由碳纤维制成。腕表搭载了由沛纳海纳沙泰尔制表厂自主研发的P .9010机芯，这款自动上链机芯厚度仅6毫米，配备小时快调装置，可同步调整 日期，两个发条盒提供3日动力储存。
Panerai: Introducing eco-friendly Fibratech
The Italian brand has spent a lot of time in laboratories in the recent years. After Carbotech and Goldtech, BMG-Steel, and DMLS titanium comes Fibratech. A new high-tech composite based on basalt fibre, which apparently is more eco-sustainable. This material is used in the latest Luminor Marina Fibratech PAM 1663. Used for the first time in watchmaking, basalt-fibre composite is used for the case and crown-lock bridge, while the bezel, crown, and crown-lock lever are made of carbon-fibre composite (or Carbotech in Panerai parlance), giving the case a two-tone appearance with the carbon-fibre composite several shades darker than its basalt-fibre counterpart.
伯爵：全球最薄机械表
伯爵的全新力作Altiplano Ultimate Concept终极概念腕表，以2毫米的极致纤薄，成为全球最薄机械表。为了消减极细微的十分之一毫米，此款独特限定手表使用了一种新式超硬、坚固的钴基高科技合金，确保腕表在拥有极致纤薄度之余，仍不因外力而弯曲。Altiplano Ultimate Concept终极概念腕表采用了“二合一”结构，消弭了内部机芯与外在表壳的界线，令表壳双向成为外在部件及机芯基板，也成为Altiplano Ultimate系列的识别特征。
整只机芯及表壳的细部组件均经重新思量、设计与制作，以服膺极致纤薄的观点，部份轮系厚度仅达0.12毫米。这个全新的机械结构是以百分之一毫米为度量单位，在9点钟位置，于配置了滚珠轴承机构的框架上，直接安置了结构经重新设计的调速器。取消摆轮桥板，传统结构中调速器即是装置于因家百录防震器之上。6点钟位置，创新设计的发条盒搭载了特殊独特构造，减去了发条盒与发条鼓盖，安置滚珠轴承的发条直接与框架结合，由滚珠轴承机构于外部引导，将动力经由滚珠轴承机构内圈传输。3点钟位置的控制系统的设计在于提供多重时间功能设定、上链系统或与任何功能相关的机械系统产生联动，比如日期或月相校正，诸如此类的装置在日后能完美相容地被添加到这只机械结构中。这是一项重大的创新，开启了超薄制表复合以复杂功能腕表的全新视野。
Piaget: World thinnest mechanical watch
You may still remember in 2018 Piaget annouced the World thinnest mechanical watch Altiplano Ultimate Concept. 2020 is the year of realisation of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept as a commercial piece. At 2mm thin, the 1957 caliber 9P remains one of the most historically important ultra-thin movements. The movement is integrated directly into the case, which acts as the movement plate. The problem of rigidity has been addressed by making the case, not out of conventional watchmaking materials, but rather, a high-tech cobalt alloy. The Altiplano is manually wound and uses an innovative crown too, that hides within the dial itself.
罗杰杜彼：镂空三问
罗杰杜彼的制表师以未来的眼光重新诠释报时机制，让新款腕表Excalibur Diabolus in Machina这款三问时计与众不同。在过去，打开夜灯并不是像按下开关那样轻松，因此钟表的声响报时功能就此应运而生，它是制表过程中最复杂困难的一环。拨动按钮即可触发声音查询时间。小时为低音，分钟为高音，刻钟为高低音结合。此外，在11点方向设有一个由罗马数字组成的圆盘。一旦报时机制被触发，刻有“时、刻、分”的圆盘将会转动，然后以视觉方式展示正在播报的时间。为此，制表师在报时机制中加入触碰系统，让腕表拥有者无需在触发报时前摸索时针。其次，在3点到4点方向设有功能显示器。借助杠杆，腕表拥有者能立刻得知腕表处于“手动上弦”还是“时间设置”状态。这种视觉安全功能极为重要，因为在报时装置运作过程中，调整腕表可能会损坏机芯。最后，为了方便佩戴者生活，报时按钮配有“all or nothing”装置。只有完全按下按钮, 才能触发报时机制。
Roger Dubuis: Skeletonized minute repeater, piece unique
The latest Excalibur Diabolus In Machina dial has a “destructured architecture,” with a seemingly random assortment of Roman numerals also thrown into the mix. What hids behind this skeleton dial is a flying tourbillon and a flying repeater making this unique piece even more precious. The RD107 has been a defining caliber of Roger Dubuis, a unicorn among ultra-high-end calibers. With its symmetrical layout of two micro-rotors, two hammers, and one massive tourbillon assembly.
江诗丹顿：双面复杂腕表
江诗丹顿推出品牌至今融合最多复杂功能的超卓腕表杰作”La Musique du Temps”系列。系列中的 La Musique du Temps Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph 这款独一无二的时计采用双面表盘设计，表盘正面集合了时间显示、计时和万年历功能，背面则呈现了多项精妙的天文复杂功能，包括太阳时、时间等式、日出和日落时间、昼夜时长，以及月龄和月相显示，同时这款腕表还配备陀飞轮装置及三问报时功能。由品牌全新打造的2756机芯由1163个零件组成，将24项复杂功能井然有序地融汇于方寸之间。这款杰作同时也是一枚三问表。
Vacheron Constantin : Two-sided high complication watch
The Vacheron Constantin La Musique du Temps Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph is part of the larger series of watches called “La Musique du Temps” a double-sided watch, with a strap attachment system that allows either side of the watch to be chosen as the one visible when the watch is on the wrist. One side is devoted to timing and calendar functions (including a perpetual calendar and the split-seconds chronograph) while the other shows the tourbillon regulator and is devoted to astronomical indications. The watch, in keeping with the “Musique” theme, is also a minute repeater.
名士表：重写20年代装饰艺术的经典
名士表的汉伯顿系列如今有崭新的款式登场，以风格独特的造型，向上世纪20年代享誉世界的建筑流派致敬。正如当时最风行的装饰艺术潮流，汉伯顿腕表的弯弧线条巧妙避免锐利的直角，并使光线更能在其光滑的表面上熠熠生辉。全新表款提供抛光精钢表壳并有三种尺寸。自动上链表款具备以四颗螺丝固定的蓝宝石水晶玻璃表背，而石英款的表壳则是配备全覆式的底盖。小号表盘备有银色、太阳缎面打磨蓝色或白色珍珠母贝的不同版本，并饰有精致细腻的分钟刻度圈。男士腕表则是靠卓越的自动上链机芯来驱动，提供大三针或时、分、小秒针款，摆陀装饰精美的“日内瓦饰纹”。这系列腕表不论是高低起伏的线条、色调、造型或材质都彰显出装饰艺术的精神。不论是女表或男表，这些新款式的所有细节设计均展现出该艺术流派的风格。
Baume & Mercier: Writing a 1920’s Art Deco
The Hampton takes on a design language present in the 1920’s Art Deco era. The rectangular case features subtle curves and rounded edges that are meant to play with the way light reflects off the case. The model comes in three sizes, a modestly-sized execution with sweeping seconds and no date, and a larger iteration at with small seconds at 6 o’clock, along with a date window.
