Somethingdongxi

如梦境般的美
Dior Autumn-Winter 2020-2021Haute Couture

我的梦想?让女性更开心和更漂亮。
My dream ? To make women happier and more beautiful.

Christian Dior

每场高级定制秀都像是一场美丽的梦境。因疫情,整个全世界似乎都暂时停顿了下来,这时候做一场美丽的梦就更加需要了。

迪奥线上发表 2020 秋冬高级定制服系列,37 套全新设计均以微型服装呈现,在长达 10 分钟的电影中(由义大利知名导演 Matteo Garrone 操刀),以独特的叙事方式重塑高级订制服里最引人入胜的精湛工艺。

迪奥 创意总监 Maria Grazia Chiuri 表示:“超现实主义的影像试图赋予不可见的事物一种可视的存在。我对于这些伴随神秘及魔法而来的未来不确定性感到著迷。” 揭示 2020 秋冬高级定制服系列的设计理念。

面对前所未有的时代,迪奥 女装暨配件创意总监 Maria Grazia Chiuri 选择聚焦于来自三位女性创作者的艺术作品,包含 Lee Miller、 Dora Maar 及 Jacqueline Lamba ,她们早已凌驾于谬思的偶像地位,隐身于她们美丽背后,呈现的是以一个艺术家与超现实主义工作者的眼界,捍卫其女性意识。

超现实主义下的女性肢体透过全新定制的微型人台诠释,以一个更诗意的表现方式来揭示 2020 秋冬高级订制服系列。如同迪奥先生当年的冒险之旅,这些微型的高级订制服及人台被安放于外型宛若蒙田大道三十号传奇宅邸的展示箱中巡回世界各地。遥相呼应当年的 “Théâtre de la Mode(时尚剧院)” 展览:二战后集结法国时装设计师特别设计的微型作品至欧洲与美国各地巡回展出,旨在复兴法国时尚产业,并为战争幸存者募款。

迪奥 高级定制工坊在这趟冒险之旅中担纲要角。从日间套装开始,采用男装面料打造充满立体结构与建筑线条的 Bar Jacket 微型创作,工艺精湛媲美艺术品。大衣呈现褶裥层次、飘逸垂坠剪裁令人联想到古代神庙里的神祉雕像;灰色与金色调和的璀璨色泽,使衣裳如霞光闪耀。

这些极致精巧的微型作品全程手工缝制,赞颂高级订制服不可或缺的美感创意。而于谢幕登场的华丽婚纱,维系一个随时间流逝而遗忘的象征典范。

Dior Autumn-Winter 2020-2021Haute Couture (all 37 looks)

The autumn-winter 2020-2021 haute couture collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri was exclusively revealed online, at the heart of a magical film entitled Le Mythe Dior, directed especially for the House by Matteo Garrone, the emblematic Italian filmmaker who recently signed Pinocchio.

The Atelier’s virtuoso miniature creations come to life as if by magic, traveling through a dreamlike, fantasy universe. Embodying a veritable alchemy of the Dior dream, mythology and the silver screen, this moment of enchantment pays homage to the Theatre de la mode, a unique event initiated in 1945 to promote French couture around the world, and Paris, more than ever, as the unrivaled capital of haute couture. Luxury being above all about the beauty of gesture, imbued with emotion and joie de vivre, it was essential and symbolic for the Creative Director of Dior women’s collections to in turn perpetuate and reinvent, during these unprecedented times, a spirit of freedom and renewal in the name of the creative energy passed down by Monsieur Dior

It represents a major feat for Dior’s petites mains, who gamely rose to the challenge of executing miniature tailoring, involving an infinitely rigorous and passionate dialogue with a range of precious savoir faire skills. The spellbinding collection highlights the noble character of the artisanal poetry that sculpted, shaped, embroidered and sublimated these exceptional creations. In creating these thirty seven captivating silhouettes, Maria Grazia Chiuri wished to celebrate the work and the journeys of five indomitable, magnificently inspiring figures of the Surrealist movement: Lee Miller, Dora Maar, Dorothea Tanning, Leonora Carrington and Jacqueline Lamba. Each one a visionary, these audacious personalities transcended their role as “muse” by affirming their vocations as artists of dazzling talent.

Some of the beautiful scenography that took our breath away

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